The two-part tublar sarong, called an ei Ledo is the ceremonial dress of women from the Hubi Iki or Lesser Blossom descent group. The design strictly adheres to the traditions of the Lesser Blossom lineage. It has four blue/black (roa) stripes across each of its two panels, which are sewn together with dark indigo thread. The main, wide ikat motif of both ei raja and ei ledo features only two colors: white, and red. The motifs in the wide bands are specific to each hubi, and sometimes to smaller kinship divisions called wini, or “seeds.”
The Hubi Ae or Greater Blossom lineage wears tubular skirts called ei raja, named for three stripes of supplementary warp patterns that cross the piece, a technique called raja in Savunese. An ei raja traditionally has seven black stripes across each of its two panels. The main, wide ikat motif of both ei raja and ei ledo features only two colours: white, and red. The motifs in the wide bands are specific to each hubi, and sometimes to smaller kinship divisions called wini, or “seeds.”
The two part ei worapi tubular textile worn by women combines elements of the other traditional textiles called ei raja and ei ledo. The ikat motifs that are in the band called hebe in the ei worapi textile are open to the artistic interpretation of the weaver and may be dyed using three colours instead of two colours such as the ikat bands in the more conventional ei ledo or ei raja.The ikat bands near the head and foot render ei worapi ritually neutral. The ei worapi was invented with the arrival of Christianity; it places all women on equal footing. Over time the two lineages of Hubi Iki and Hubi Ae have begun to differentiate the Ei Worapi by dyeing the join of the two sections red or black depending on the lineage.
The structure of the two-part woman’s tubular sarong called ei womedi is more similar to a third type of textile called ei worapi. Both the ei womedi and ei worapi textiles are more neutral and can be worn by women from the Hubi Iki or Hubi Ae lineages as an everyday sarong. Medi means black and refers to the use of a dark indigo as the overall colour of this textile.
Ei Leko Wue
Ei leko wue is a tubular sarong is worn by young girl between the ages of 4 – 10 before she reaches puberty. It contains no motif but is made with a simple blue-black and white stipe pattern. The use of motifs on a textile is only for girls who have reached puberty. The young girl steps into the tube which is folded at the waist and tied in a way that creates a pouch. The nuts from Arecea catechu palm and piper betel are placed in this pouch. She is then presented to her matrilineal grandmother who takes the gifts offered by her granddaughter and replaces them with green mung beans (Vigna radiata) locally called kebui and grilled coconut. This is an early teaching of the importance of respect for elders as well as to participate in the act of giving and receiving.
Ei Pudi Wo Datu
The culture of Savu and Raijua places great weight on ancestry, birthplace, and community life. The local traditional religion, called Jingi Tiu, requires every member of the village to participate in rituals and ceremonies. The island of Raijua, just to the west of the island of Savu produces an unusual two-part indigo woman’s sarong called Ei Pudi Wo Datu. Datu refers to the flower of the lontar palm which produces a liquid called tuak which flows from the stalk of the cut palm flower. This drink is an essential food for the people of Raijua especially during the dry season when food is scarce. The Ei Pudi is woven with blue-black and white threads. The tie dye white circle on the finished textile is made by tying a mung bean, sorghum or corn seed to creating a resist pattern. The final over-dyeing with indigo produces an overall blue-black color of the textile.
Hig’i Wo Pidu
The culture of Savu and Rai Jua places great weight on ancestry, birthplace, and community life. The local traditional religion, called Jingi Tiu, requires every member of the village to participate in rituals and ceremonies. This textile, called a Hig’i Wo Pidu is the ceremonial dress of men. The collective identity of the women descent groups or hubi, wini, and the male descent groups or udu is the basis of Savu culture, a legacy from the ancestors that demands to be honored. Hig’i is translated as blanket, wo means pattern and pidu means seven. This textile is defined by its odd number of stripes.
The people of this island have a strong culture and while many have converted to Christianity the traditional religion Jingi Tiu still prevails. All ceremonies related to land management are overseen by traditional leaders called Mone Ama. Within the Mone Ama is the Apu Lodo “Descendent of the Sun” and Deo Rai “Lord of the Land”. Textiles are an important aspect of ceremonial life. The single panel ikat shoulder scarf called Heleda is worn by men or women for ceremonies and special occasions.
The people of this island have a strong culture and while many have converted to Christianity the traditional belief system – Jingi Tiu still prevails. All ceremonies related to land management are overseen by traditional leaders called Mone Ama. Within the Mone Ama is the Apu Lodo “Descendent of the Sun” and Deo Rai “Lord of the Land”. Textiles are an important aspect of ceremonial life. This cloth called Wai Wake is a used by a man as a belt that is tied over the traditional hip cloth; Hig’i Wo Heo. The structure of a Hig’i Wo Heo textile contains nine ikat bands indicating a high social rank among the people that follow the traditional ways of Jingi Tiu.